{"id":281294,"date":"2021-06-23T00:50:29","date_gmt":"2021-06-22T21:50:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/en.buradabiliyorum.com\/new-book-says-women-have-been-surfing-for-centuries\/"},"modified":"2021-06-23T00:50:29","modified_gmt":"2021-06-22T21:50:29","slug":"new-book-says-women-have-been-surfing-for-centuries","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/new-book-says-women-have-been-surfing-for-centuries\/","title":{"rendered":"#New book says women have been surfing for centuries"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&#8220;<strong>#New book says women have been surfing for centuries<\/strong>&#8221;<\/p>\n<div>\n<p>They\u2019re the wave of the future.<\/p>\n<p>Champion female surfers will be riding the waves at the 2021 Summer <a href=\"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/category\/game\/\" data-internallinksmanager029f6b8e52c=\"7\" title=\"Game\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Game<\/a>s in Tokyo next month as the sport makes its Olympic debut. <\/p>\n<p>Only 20 women from 17 countries will compete \u2014 with their entry determined by scores in past surfing events and each country limited to a\u00a0max of two athletes. Repping Team USA, after qualifying in 2019, are Honolulu native Carissa Moore, 28, and Caroline Marks, 19, from Boca Raton, Fla. <\/p>\n<p>But fearless ladies around the world have paved the way for this moment, crushing 80-foot waves and challenging the male-dominated sport for hundreds of years.<\/p>\n<p>In <a rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Women-Waves-Goddesses-Millennial-Champions\/dp\/1643137247?tag=nypost-20\">\u201cWomen on Waves: A Cultural History of Surfing,\u201d<\/a> (Pegasus, out July 6) Jim Kempton, former editor-in-chief of Surfer magazine, puts the world of female surfers under a journalistic microscope, tracing the world\u2019s oldest known surfboard ownership to a 17<sup>th<\/sup> century Polynesian princess.<\/p>\n<p>Surfing was all about sex, power, pleasure and courtship, suggests the author, who notes that females in the South Seas back in the 1600s wore little or nothing while surfing and \u201cclaimed an equal share if not a lion\u2019s share of Mother Ocean\u2019s sensual, sacred experience.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" alt=\"While surfing has historically been viewed as a male sport, women surfed in the South Seas in the 1600s.  \" class=\"wp-image-18554653 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-hawaiian-surf.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-hawaiian-surf.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-hawaiian-surf.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-hawaiian-surf.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1024 1024w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-hawaiian-surf.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=2000 2000w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><figcaption>While surfing has historically been viewed as a male sport, women surfed in the South Seas in the 1600s. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Fast-forward to the Roaring Twenties. Who would have thought that stodgy English mystery writer Dame Agatha Christie \u2013 known for her dozens of detective novels and short story collections starring the fictional gumshoes Hercule Poirot and Miss Marple \u2013 was an avid surfer, riding the waves when she wasn\u2019t at her Smith Corona?\u00a0<\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" alt=\"When she wasn't bashing out a good detective novel at her typewriter, Dame Agatha Christie loved catching a wave. \" class=\"wp-image-18554854 lazyload\" width=\"353\" height=\"526\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-agatha-christie.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-agatha-christie.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-agatha-christie.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-agatha-christie.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=353 353w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-agatha-christie.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=706 706w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 353px\"\/><figcaption>When she wasn\u2019t bashing out a good detective novel at her typewriter, Dame Agatha Christie loved catching a wave. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<p>It wasn\u2019t until the 1930s, when the flames of war were raging in Europe, that the sport of surfing was introduced to the British masses \u2013 no less by women\u2019s surfing clubs.<\/p>\n<p>In America, with the Great Depression abroad in the land, the billionaire tobacco heiress, <a href=\"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/category\/social-mediaa\/\" data-internallinksmanager029f6b8e52c=\"1\" title=\"Social Media\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">social<\/a>ite and tabloid figure Doris Duke, who had an oceanfront mansion in Hawaii, took up surfing, taught by her lover, surfer king Duke Kahanamoku.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe torrid, tragic story of these two mavericks would have made a Paramount Studios screenplay,\u201d Kempton writes. \u201cThey were a match made in paradise, or purgatory, depending on the viewpoint.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Soon Hollywood stars got into the act \u2013 from Norma Jean Baker on the cusp of becoming Marilyn Monroe, posing and surfing along the beaches of Malibu \u2014 to contemporary wave-riders like <a rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/pagesix.com\/2020\/10\/24\/cameron-diaz-and-benji-madden-buy-14-7m-beverly-hills-compound\/?_ga=2.48288801.645451460.1623671093-1558788761.1568029257\">Cameron Diaz<\/a>, <a rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/pagesix.com\/2021\/01\/18\/celebrities-who-love-to-surf\/\">Minnie Driver<\/a> and <a rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/pagesix.com\/2020\/07\/10\/helen-hunt-is-mad-about-this-little-black-bikini\/\">Helen Hunt<\/a>, who did her own stunts for her 2015 surfer move, \u201cRide.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" alt=\"Marilyn monroe\" class=\"wp-image-18554715 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-marilyn-monroe-1.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-marilyn-monroe-1.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-marilyn-monroe-1.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-marilyn-monroe-1.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=682 682w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-marilyn-monroe-1.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1333 1333w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 682px\"\/><figcaption>Before she was Marilyn Monroe, Norma Jean Baker was a true California girl who would often hang 10 in Malibu. <\/figcaption><figcaption><span class=\"credit\">Alamy Stock Photo<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Still, it took years of work by strong women surfers to achieve equality and equity. Layne Beachley, an Australian seven-time world champ, was outspoken about how women were marginalized in the sport, often forced to compete in the worst conditions or kicked out of the water when the surf improved so that the men could ride the best waves. <\/p>\n<p>In 2018, the World Surf League announced that men and women would earn equal prize money, making it the first sport to do so.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI used to be the lone female in the lineup, encountering hostility and threats,\u201d Beachley, who didn\u2019t think pay equity would h<a href=\"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/category\/download-scripts-themes-apps\/\" data-internallinksmanager029f6b8e52c=\"9\" title=\"Download Scripts &amp; Themes &amp; Apps\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">app<\/a>en during her lifetime, <a rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.worldsurfleague.com\/posts\/347610\/layne-beachley-on-the-future-of-womens-surfing\">told World Surf League.<\/a> \u201cAnd now we occasionally outnumber the boys.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Here are just a few of the female surfers who rode the waves to greatness and contributed to major changes in competitive worldwide surfing over the years.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Royal on board: <\/strong>Princess Victoria Ka\u2019iulani wasn\u2019t just the heir to the Hawaiian crown in the late 1800s, she was also an expert surfer and classically educated woman who fought valiantly to stop the annexation of her homeland by American businessmen. (She even met with President Grover Cleveland at the White House to plead her case.) Surfing was her great joy until her untimely death from inflammatory rheumatism at age 23 in 1898.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" alt=\"Princess Victoria Ka\u2019iulani was the heir to the Hawaiian crown in the late 1800s -- and an avid surfer.  \" class=\"wp-image-18555596 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-victoria-kaiulani.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-victoria-kaiulani.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-victoria-kaiulani.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-victoria-kaiulani.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=682 682w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-victoria-kaiulani.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1333 1333w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 682px\"\/><figcaption>Princess Victoria Ka\u2019iulani was the heir to the Hawaiian crown in the late 1800s \u2014 and an avid surfer. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>The first female superstar: <\/strong>Mary Ann Hawkins won every surfing and paddling event she entered between 1935 to 1941, racking up 37 first-place ribbons and acting as a stunt double for Elizabeth Taylor, Shirley Jones, Esther Williams and Dorothy Lamour. Hawkins created a swim school in Waikiki that taught babies to hold their breath underwater.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" alt=\"Mary Anne Hawkins riding the waves.\" class=\"wp-image-18602556 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-mary-anne-aawkins.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-mary-anne-aawkins.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-mary-anne-aawkins.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-mary-anne-aawkins.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1024 1024w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-mary-anne-aawkins.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=2000 2000w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><figcaption>Mary Anne Hawkins riding the waves.<\/figcaption><figcaption><span class=\"credit\">Courtesy of The California Surf Museum<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Surf\u2019s golden girl: <\/strong>From first lady of surfing in the \u201950s to stunt double for Esther Williams, Marge Calhoun became an icon after riding big waves in Malibu, winning championships and promoting the sport throughout her life, as well as co-founding the US Surfing Association.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Best in show: <\/strong>She stepped on a board at age 12 and became legendary for firsts \u2014 Joyce Hoffman won best surfer in the world in 1966 at age 19, and became the first multiple world-title holder, first female state lifeguard, first cross-trainer and first to ride Oahu\u2019s notorious Pipeline. She made the cover of Life Magazine and was LA Times Woman of the Year in 1965.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" alt=\"Capistrano Beach, Calif. native Joyce Hoffman racked up many &quot;firsts&quot; in the sport, including best surfer in the world at age 19 in 1966 and first multiple world-title holder.  \" class=\"wp-image-18554802 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-joyce-hoffman-2.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-joyce-hoffman-2.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-joyce-hoffman-2.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-joyce-hoffman-2.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1024 1024w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-joyce-hoffman-2.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=2000 2000w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><figcaption>Capistrano Beach, Calif. native Joyce Hoffman racked up many \u201cfirsts\u201d in the sport, including best surfer in the world at age 19 in 1966 and first multiple world-title holder. <\/figcaption><figcaption><span class=\"credit\">ZUMAPRESS.com<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Teen on the scene: <\/strong>Margo Oberg first surfed at age 10, and won her first competition at 11. From then on, she won every major championship, was the first female professional surfer in the world in 1975 pioneering women\u2019s big-wave riding and dominating four years of global competition \u2013 all before finishing high school.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" alt=\" Margo Oberg retired in 1970 having won every major amateur championship.\" class=\"wp-image-18602655 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-margo-oberg.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-margo-oberg.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-margo-oberg.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-margo-oberg.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1024 1024w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/women-on-waves-margo-oberg.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=2000 2000w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><figcaption> Margo Oberg retired in 1970 having won every major amateur championship.<\/figcaption><figcaption><span class=\"credit\">Tom Servais<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Petite powerhouse: <\/strong>Standing at 5-foot-4 and weighing 115 pounds, South African Wendy Botha won the world surfing title in 1987 and 1989 becoming Australia\u2019s first female pro champion. She changed her citizenship to Australian, circumventing apartheid sanctions, and won again in 1991 and 1992. Botha posed nude in Playboy to show the world how surfing shapes the body.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"691\" alt=\"The first great South African surf star,  Botha changed her nationality to Australian, and went on to win four World Titles. She appeared on both the cover (right) and centerspread of Australian Playboy in 1992.\" class=\"wp-image-18603218 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/WendyBotha-playboy.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/WendyBotha-playboy.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/WendyBotha-playboy.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/WendyBotha-playboy.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1024 1024w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/WendyBotha-playboy.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=2048 2048w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><figcaption>The first great South African surf star,  Botha changed her nationality to Australian, and went on to win four World Titles. She appeared on both the cover (right) and centerspread of Australian Playboy in 1992.<\/figcaption><figcaption><span class=\"credit\">Tom Servais, Playboy<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Wonder woman: <\/strong>Layne Beachley overcame a tide of obstacles from chronic fatigue, depression, injuries and family tragedies to become an icon. By age 20 in 1992, she was ranked sixth in the world despite personal struggles, and went on to win six world championships in a row, from 1998 to 2003 \u2014 making her the only surfer, female or male, to have that kind of winning streak. She won her seventh title in 2006 and retired in 2008 but never stopped fighting for equal pay in the sport.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" alt=\"One of the most successful female &#10;surfers in history, Beachley won an unprecedented seven World Titles and was &#10;an outspoken proponent of women in surfing.\" class=\"wp-image-18602783 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/surf-layne-beachly.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/surf-layne-beachly.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/surf-layne-beachly.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/surf-layne-beachly.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1024 1024w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/surf-layne-beachly.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=2000 2000w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><figcaption>One of the most successful female<br \/>\nsurfers in history, Beachley won an unprecedented seven World Titles and was<br \/>\nan outspoken proponent of women in surfing.<\/figcaption><figcaption><span class=\"credit\">Jeff Divine<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Tough rider: <\/strong>Stephanie Gilmore<strong> <\/strong>won seven world championships in her moonshot career and was the first surfer to win in her rookie year in 2007. The influential Australian champ survived being badly beaten with a metal pipe by a homeless man and fracturing a knee while surfing in Australia, going on to pose nude in ESPN\u2019s magazine to help her \u201cstop stressing about my insecurities.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1024\" height=\"685\" alt=\"Gilmore competes in the Roxy Pro in 2005 at Gold Coast, Australia. \" class=\"wp-image-18602917 lazyload\" srcset=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/GettyImages-52282082.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=300 300w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/GettyImages-52282082.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=640 640w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/GettyImages-52282082.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1280 1280w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/GettyImages-52282082.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=1024 1024w, https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/GettyImages-52282082.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;w=2048 2048w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 1024px\"\/><figcaption>Gilmore competes in the Roxy Pro in 2005 at Gold Coast, Australia. <\/figcaption><figcaption><span class=\"credit\">World Surf League\/Getty Imag<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Overcoming all odds:<\/strong> Mercedes Maidana was one of the world\u2019s best big wave surfers when she was caught by one in 2014 in Maui; it pulled her underwater, with her board crashing into her forehead. After years of treatment for a traumatic brain injury and a long recovery, she has pledged her brain to the Concussion Legacy Foundation for research to help future surfers with little talked-about debilitating injuries.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-instagram wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-instagram\"\/><\/div>\n<blockquote><p><strong><span style=\"color: #ff6600;\">If you liked the article, do not forget to share it with your friends. Follow us on\u00a0<span style=\"color: #ff0000;\"><a style=\"color: #ff0000;\" href=\"https:\/\/news.google.com\/publications\/CAAqBwgKMLG0nwswvr63Aw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener noreferrer\">Google News<\/a><\/span>\u00a0too, click on the star and choose us from your favorites.<\/span><\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<blockquote>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">For forums sites go to <span style=\"color: #ff9900;\"><a style=\"color: #ff9900;\" href=\"https:\/\/forum.buradabiliyorum.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Forum.BuradaBiliyorum.Com<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<blockquote>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>If you want to read more <a href=\"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/category\/news\/\" data-internallinksmanager029f6b8e52c=\"2\" title=\"News\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">News<\/a> articles, you can visit our <span style=\"color: #ff9900;\"><a style=\"color: #ff9900;\" href=\"https:\/\/en.buradabiliyorum.com\/news\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">News category.<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><span style=\"color: black;\"><a style=\"color: #ff9900;\" href=\"https:\/\/nypost.com\/2021\/06\/22\/new-book-says-women-have-been-surfing-for-centuries\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Source<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&#8220;#New book says women have been surfing for centuries&#8221; They\u2019re the wave of the future. Champion female surfers will be riding the waves at the 2021 Summer Games in Tokyo next month as the sport makes its Olympic debut. Only 20 women from 17 countries will compete \u2014 with their entry determined by scores in&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":281295,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"fifu_image_url":"https:\/\/nypost.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2021\/06\/carissa-moore-carolina-marks.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=1200","fifu_image_alt":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[70897],"tags":[110030,70889,72214],"class_list":["post-281294","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","tag-6-22-21","tag-olympics","tag-surfing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/281294","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=281294"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/281294\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/281295"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=281294"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=281294"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/buradabiliyorum.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=281294"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}